Frequently Asked
Questions

We've been trading since 1972 - over 50 years of remedial building work across Lincolnshire and the East Midlands. The business is now in its third generation of family ownership, which means the knowledge built up over decades stays within the company rather than walking out the door with a change of management.

Our main coverage spans Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire, South Yorkshire, the East Midlands and into East England - taking in Lincoln, Nottingham, Sheffield, Leicester, Derby, Peterborough and dozens of surrounding towns. If you're not sure whether we reach you, give us a quick call. We don't like turning work away unnecessarily.

Yes. We hold relevant industry accreditations that underpin both our technical standards and our guarantee backing. We're happy to share these details on request - particularly if you're purchasing a property and your solicitor or mortgage lender needs confirmation of our credentials.

All of our remedial works come with a comprehensive 20-year guarantee. That's not a marketing line - it reflects the fact that we only specify treatments we're confident in and only install systems using manufacturer-approved materials and methods. We wouldn't offer a 20-year guarantee on work we weren't proud of.

Call us, email, or use the booking form on this site. We'll arrange a convenient time to visit your property, carry out a proper diagnostic survey, and provide you with a written report and quotation. We don't charge for surveys in most cases - and we'll always tell you honestly if we think the issue is minor enough to handle yourself.

Yes, and it's an area we genuinely specialise in. Older and listed buildings require a different approach - breathable materials, lime-based systems, and a thorough understanding of how historic fabric behaves. We work closely with conservation officers and heritage consultants where necessary, and we know the compliance requirements that come with Listed Building Consent.

Damp proofing refers to the range of treatments and measures used to prevent or remedy excess moisture in buildings. It covers everything from injected damp-proof courses and cavity drainage systems through to surface treatments, improved ventilation and drainage works. The correct treatment depends entirely on the type and source of damp - which is why a proper diagnosis always comes first.

The three most common types are rising damp (groundwater travelling upward through masonry), penetrating damp (water entering horizontally through the building fabric), and condensation (moisture from the air depositing on cold surfaces). They look similar but have very different causes and require different solutions. Misidentifying one for another is one of the most common - and costly - mistakes in the industry.

Common indicators include tide marks or staining on lower walls, peeling wallpaper or flaking paint, a persistent musty smell, efflorescence (white salt deposits) on masonry, black mould growth on walls or ceilings, or timber that feels soft or spongy. Any of these warrant a proper survey - but none of them alone tells you the cause. That's what a calibrated diagnostic survey is for.

Damp itself isn't directly hazardous, but the mould growth it encourages can be. Mould releases spores that aggravate respiratory conditions - particularly asthma, rhinitis and other allergies. Children, the elderly and anyone with a compromised immune system are most at risk. Beyond health, untreated damp causes progressive structural damage, so there's every reason to deal with it promptly.

Done properly, damp proofing is a long-term solution - our guarantee runs to 20 years, and correctly installed systems routinely outlast that. The key word is "properly". Treatments that fail early are usually the result of incorrect diagnosis, unsuitable materials, or inadequate preparation. We won't cut corners, which is why we're comfortable standing behind our work for two decades.

Rising damp occurs when groundwater travels upward through masonry by capillary action - essentially the same mechanism that draws water up a paper towel. It's most commonly caused by an absent, failed, or bridged damp-proof course. External ground levels that have been raised above the DPC line, or render applied below it, are frequent culprits. Worth noting: genuine rising damp is often over-diagnosed. Our surveyors use calibrated moisture meters and salt analysis to make sure we're treating the right thing.

Classic signs include a tide mark at low level on internal walls - typically no more than a metre from floor level - along with peeling wallpaper, staining, efflorescence (white crystalline deposits), and a damp or musty smell. The pattern matters: rising damp affects the base of walls and doesn't usually appear higher up. If you're seeing damp above waist height, it's probably something else.

The standard treatment is chemical DPC injection - a silicone cream or fluid injected into a series of holes drilled along the mortar course, creating a water-repellent barrier within the wall. In some situations a physical damp-proof membrane may be more appropriate. After the DPC is installed, contaminated plaster must come off and be replaced with a salt-resistant renovation plaster system. Skipping the replastering is a false economy - the salts left behind will cause ongoing damage regardless of the DPC.

On a typical terraced or semi-detached property, a rising damp treatment including replastering usually takes one to three days. Larger properties, or those with extensive affected areas, may take longer. We'll give you a clear programme before works begin so you know exactly what to expect - and we'll tell you how long to leave it before redecorating.

Absolutely - and it happens all the time. Condensation and penetrating damp both produce visible moisture and staining that can easily be mistaken for rising damp by the untrained eye, or by surveyors relying on basic damp meters alone. Misdiagnosis means the wrong treatment, wasted money, and a problem that comes straight back. We use a combination of calibrated meters, salt analysis, and thermal assessment to get to the actual cause before recommending anything.

Generally, no. Buildings insurance typically covers sudden and unexpected damage, whereas rising damp is a gradual condition - meaning most policies exclude it as a maintenance issue. That said, if rising damp has caused secondary damage (e.g. to timber floors), there may be a partial claim depending on your policy wording. It's always worth checking with your insurer directly.

Penetrating damp is moisture that enters a building horizontally - through external walls, around windows, under flashings, or via a defective roof. Unlike rising damp, it isn't limited to low-level walls and can appear anywhere in the property. The pattern of damp typically follows the defect that's allowing water in, which makes it one of the more straightforward types to trace once you know what to look for.

The most common causes are failed or eroded pointing in brickwork or stonework, cracked or porous render, defective window or door seals, poorly maintained gutters and downpipes that allow water to run down the wall, and failed flashings at roof junctions. In older solid-wall properties, the masonry itself can become porous over time, particularly after frost damage.

The key difference is direction and pattern. Rising damp moves upward from the ground, stays low on walls, and is associated with a failed DPC. Penetrating damp moves inward through the external fabric and can appear at any height - often coinciding with rainfall. If your damp gets noticeably worse during or after heavy rain, penetrating damp is the more likely cause.

Treatment focuses on removing the source of water ingress first - repointing, replacing failed seals, fixing guttering, or repairing flashings. Once the entry point is sealed, any internally affected plaster may need to be hacked off and replaced once the wall has dried out. In some cases, a masonry water repellent is applied to the external face of a particularly porous wall. There's no point treating the internal symptoms without fixing the external cause.

Yes, if left unchecked. Persistent moisture in walls creates conditions for timber decay, frost damage to masonry and, in serious cases, erosion of mortar joints to the point where structural integrity is affected. Water ingress around window lintels and roof-wall junctions is particularly worth dealing with promptly, as these are load-bearing areas where damage can escalate faster.

Condensation forms when warm, moisture-laden air contacts a cold surface and the water vapour drops out as liquid. Everyday activities like cooking, showering, breathing and drying clothes indoors all add significant moisture to the air. If that air can't escape - because ventilation is poor - it finds the coldest surfaces in the building and deposits there. Cold external walls, window reveals and corners behind furniture are all classic locations.

Not exactly. Condensation is a specific type of moisture problem - one that originates from within the building, from water vapour in the air. "Damp" is a broader term that covers all types of excess moisture, including rising damp and penetrating damp. Condensation is actually the most common cause of dampness in UK homes, particularly in modern or recently retrofitted buildings where airtightness has improved without a corresponding increase in ventilation.

Two things happen in winter that make condensation worse. First, external walls and windows get much colder, so there are more cold surfaces for moisture to condense on. Second, people tend to keep windows closed and heat their homes intermittently - meaning the air holds more moisture and has fewer opportunities to escape. If you only notice mould and condensation from October to March, that seasonal pattern is a strong indicator that condensation rather than rising or penetrating damp is responsible.

Treatment addresses the root cause - excess moisture with insufficient ventilation - rather than the symptoms. Solutions range from passive ventilation improvements (trickle vents, airbricks) and extract fans in kitchens and bathrooms, through to whole-house positive input ventilation (PIV) systems. In some properties, improving insulation to raise surface temperatures is also part of the answer. We'll recommend the most cost-effective combination for your specific situation.

In most cases, yes - PIV units are highly effective at reducing condensation and mould growth. They work by gently pumping filtered fresh air into the property from the loft, creating a slight positive pressure that pushes stale, damp air out through natural gaps. They're particularly well suited to properties where retrofitting individual extract fans is difficult or where condensation affects multiple rooms. That said, a PIV unit alone won't fix a penetrating damp or rising damp problem - diagnosis first, always.

Dry rot is caused by the fungus Serpula lacrymans, which breaks down the structural fibres in timber - leaving it brittle, cracked and unable to support load. Despite the name, it needs moisture to establish itself (usually above 20% wood moisture content). Once active, it can spread through masonry and plaster to reach otherwise dry timber, which makes it the most serious form of fungal decay you'll encounter in a building.

Wet rot is the more common of the two and stays localised to areas of persistent moisture - it won't spread once the moisture source is removed. Dry rot is far more destructive: it can transport its own moisture supply through root-like strands called hyphae, allowing it to cross masonry and affect timbers that aren't directly wet. Wet rot timbers tend to feel soft and spongy; dry rot timbers are typically dry, brittle, and cracked into cuboidal pieces.

Yes - and this is what makes it particularly dangerous. Serpula lacrymans produces mycelial strands that can penetrate and travel through brick, plaster and mortar to reach and attack timber on the other side. That's why effective treatment requires isolating the outbreak, removing affected timber beyond the visible boundary of decay, and treating the surrounding masonry as well. Treating only what you can see is rarely sufficient.

Effective treatment involves three stages: removing the moisture source that allowed the outbreak to start, cutting out and replacing all affected timber (with a safety margin beyond the visible decay), and treating surrounding masonry and any new timber with appropriate fungicidal products. The replacement timber should be pre-treated with preservative before installation. Skipping any of these stages risks leaving active spores in place.

Serious, if left untreated. Dry rot can compromise structural timbers - floor joists, roof timbers, lintels - to the point where they fail under load. Beyond the immediate structural risk, the presence of active dry rot is a material issue that will affect a property's mortgage valuation and saleability. Early intervention is always significantly cheaper than dealing with the consequences of an advanced outbreak.

The most visible sign is small circular exit holes in the surface of timber - typically 1-2mm across for the common furniture beetle (Anobium punctatum), which is responsible for the vast majority of woodworm cases in the UK. You may also find fine powdery dust called frass around or beneath the timber. Bear in mind that exit holes alone tell you beetles were present at some point - not necessarily that they still are.

Fresh frass is the most reliable indicator - if it's cream or light yellow in colour and slightly sticky to the touch, activity is likely current or recent. Old frass tends to be grey and dry. You can also look for adult beetles, which emerge in late spring and summer (typically May to August). If you're uncertain, a professional survey will give you a definitive answer before you spend money on treatment you may not need.

Common furniture beetle prefers the sapwood of softwoods and European hardwoods - it's particularly prevalent in old floorboards, roof timbers, joists and antique furniture. Death watch beetle (a more serious species) targets the heartwood of old hardwoods like oak and elm, and is most often found in historic buildings. House longhorn beetle, though less common, can cause severe structural damage and is most prevalent in parts of Surrey.

The standard treatment is a permethrin-based insecticidal fluid applied to all affected and at-risk timber surfaces. The insecticide penetrates into the wood and kills larvae as they feed and when emerging adults bore through the treated zone. Surfaces must be clean and free of old finishes for the treatment to penetrate effectively. In heritage properties, water-based or boron-based treatments may be more appropriate to avoid chemical interaction with sensitive finishes or lime plasterwork.

Common furniture beetle rarely causes catastrophic structural failure in isolation, though heavy infestations in roof timbers and floor joists can significantly weaken them over time. Death watch beetle, however, is capable of hollowing out oak structural timbers to the point of serious risk. If you're buying an older property with any history of woodworm, particularly in structural hardwood, a professional assessment is well worth the cost before you exchange.

Timber treatment is the application of insecticidal and/or fungicidal products to timber to protect it against decay and infestation. It may be carried out as a preventive measure on new or replacement timber, or as a remedial treatment where early-stage attack has been identified. The product and application method depend on the timber species, its location, the nature of the risk, and whether the building has any heritage sensitivities.

A timber survey is worth commissioning if you're purchasing a property with any reported history of damp, woodworm or rot; if a previous survey flagged timber concerns; or if you've noticed changes in flooring, doors or structural elements - sticking doors, springy floors, or visible cracking in joinery can all indicate underlying timber deterioration. It's also standard practice after any remedial damp work to confirm no secondary timber damage has occurred.

Modern timber treatment products are safe once fully dry - typically within a few hours under normal conditions. We'll advise you on how long to vacate the treated area and any specific precautions depending on the products used. For households with young children or animals, we can select lower-toxicity water-based formulations where these are appropriate for the application.

Correctly applied timber treatments have a service life of 20-30 years in typical conditions. As with all our remedial works, we back our treatments with a guarantee. The longevity also depends on whether the conditions that caused the original problem - typically excess moisture - have been properly resolved. Treating timber without addressing the moisture source will always be a short-term fix.

For straightforward surface treatments, disruption is minimal - we spray or brush treat accessible timbers and the work is usually complete within a day. Where timbers are concealed beneath floorboards or behind plasterwork, some lift and reinstatement may be necessary. We'll be upfront about this at survey stage so there are no surprises on the day.

The main species affecting UK buildings are common furniture beetle (by far the most widespread), death watch beetle (found primarily in older hardwoods in historic buildings), house longhorn beetle (less common but highly destructive, mainly in southern England), and wood-boring weevils (typically associated with damp, decaying timber). Each has distinct patterns of attack, preferred timber species, and appropriate treatment approaches.

Exit holes in the surface of timber are the most obvious sign - round holes for beetles, oval holes for weevils. Fresh frass (bore dust) beneath or around the timber suggests active feeding. Tapping structural timbers and listening for a hollow sound, or probing with a bradawl and finding little resistance, can reveal more extensive internal damage than is visible from the surface. Visible adult beetles during spring and summer are a reliable confirmation of activity.

Most wood-boring beetles have a lifecycle of two to five years - adult beetles emerge, lay eggs on or in timber, and larvae spend years feeding inside before emerging as adults. This means damage accumulates slowly but consistently. An untreated infestation in structural roof timbers could, over ten to fifteen years, cause significant weakening. Death watch beetle in historic oak is particularly patient - infestations sometimes span decades before the full extent of damage becomes apparent.

Yes, always. Different species require different treatments, and treating for the wrong beetle - or treating timber that has already died and poses no further risk - is a waste of money. A proper survey identifies the species involved, assesses whether the infestation is active or historic, maps the full extent of affected timber, and recommends the most appropriate treatment. It's also the basis for any guarantee we issue.

BS 8102 defines three approaches. Type A (barrier systems) uses tanking membranes or waterproof renders applied to the structure to block water entry. Type B (structurally integral) involves waterproof concrete or additives built into the structure itself. Type C (drained cavity systems) accepts that water will enter and manages it via a cavity drain membrane and sump pump. Most remedial waterproofing uses Type C, either alone or in combination with Type A, because it doesn't rely on a perfect bond to aging masonry.

A Type C system involves fixing a studded cavity drain membrane to the walls and floor of the basement. Any water that penetrates the structure travels behind the membrane and drains down to a sump in the floor, where a submersible pump discharges it away from the building. Because it manages water rather than resisting it, Type C systems are forgiving of structural movement and the imperfect surfaces typical of older properties - which is why they're the most commonly specified remedial solution.

Yes - internal waterproofing is the standard approach in most remedial situations, particularly where external excavation is impractical or disproportionately expensive. Type C cavity drain systems are entirely internally applied and do not require any external ground works. Type A tanking can also be applied internally, though it performs best in newer structures where the substrate is sound and stable.

Correctly installed cavity drain systems have an indefinite design life - the membranes themselves are highly durable. The pump requires periodic maintenance and will need replacing every 10-15 years as part of routine upkeep. We include a maintenance schedule with every installation and can provide ongoing service contracts for commercial or investment properties where continuity is critical.

Waterproofing an existing basement space - where you're simply treating the existing structure - does not normally require planning permission. If you're converting an unhabitable basement into a living space, or altering the external appearance of the building, different rules may apply. Listed Building Consent may be required in some cases. We'll flag any planning considerations at survey stage, and we're experienced in navigating these requirements.

Most basements can be converted, but the suitability and cost depend on several factors - ceiling height (Building Regulations require a minimum of 2.1m), the current structural condition, groundwater levels, and whether adequate natural light and ventilation can be achieved. A cellar that's been wet for decades will need thorough waterproofing before any fit-out begins. We carry out a detailed feasibility assessment before committing to any conversion project.

Converting an existing basement that's already below the footprint of the house usually falls under permitted development and doesn't require planning permission - though Building Regulations approval will always be needed. If you're excavating to create a new basement, or altering the external appearance, a planning application is likely required. Listed buildings and properties in conservation areas have additional restrictions. We'll advise on this as part of the initial assessment.

A straightforward conversion of an existing cellar - waterproofing, first fix, insulation, plastering and second fix - typically takes six to twelve weeks, depending on size and specification. Projects involving underpinning, lowering the floor slab, or installing light wells will take longer. We'll give you a realistic programme at the outset, and we won't compress it to win the job.

In most areas, a well-executed basement conversion can add 10-15% to a property's value - sometimes more in high-demand urban locations where additional square footage commands a significant premium. The return varies by area and use (a bedroom with en suite adds more than a utility room), but as a means of creating useable space without extending the footprint, it's often among the most cost-effective options available.

At a minimum, a conversion will involve waterproofing the basement envelope, insulating walls and floor, installing ventilation and drainage. Where head height is insufficient, the floor slab may need to be broken out and lowered - a significant undertaking that also requires underpinning the existing foundations. Any structural alterations must be designed and signed off by a structural engineer. We work with trusted structural engineers and project manage the full scope of works where required.

Heritage damp proofing refers to the use of traditional, breathable materials and methods on older buildings - typically those pre-1919 in construction. These buildings were designed to manage moisture through evaporation rather than exclusion; sealing them with modern impermeable products traps moisture in the fabric and can cause accelerated deterioration. Lime-based renders and plasters, breathable insulation, and low-intervention ventilation strategies are the tools of the trade here.

Generally, no - or at least not without very careful consideration. Cement renders, Portland cement pointing, and rigid tanking products can cause serious harm to historic masonry by trapping moisture and concentrating stress on the original fabric. On listed buildings, there is also the question of consent: any treatment that could affect the character of the structure may require Listed Building Consent. We always specify materials appropriate to the age and construction of the building in question.

Lime mortar is a traditional pointing and plastering material made from lime putty or hydraulic lime rather than Portland cement. It's softer and more permeable than cement, which is exactly the point - in a stone or old brick wall, the mortar is designed to be the sacrificial element, taking the stress of movement and allowing moisture to evaporate. Repointing with hard cement mortar on an old stone building forces moisture to escape through the stone face instead, causing spalling and long-term damage.

Yes - and we're experienced in doing so. Conservation officers can be protective of building fabric, quite rightly, and the key to a productive relationship is being able to demonstrate that your proposed approach is both technically sound and sympathetic to the historic character of the building. We can prepare specification documents, attend pre-application meetings, and support you through the Listed Building Consent process where required.

It depends on the nature and extent of the works. Internal works that don't affect the character of the building may not require consent; anything that removes or alters original fabric - including old plasterwork - typically will. The threshold is lower than most people expect, so it's always worth checking with your local planning authority before starting any work. Carrying out unauthorised works to a listed building is a criminal offence, so it pays to get this right from the outset.

We install cavity wall insulation (injected mineral wool or bead), internal wall insulation (rigid board or frameless systems), loft insulation (mineral wool or spray foam), and underfloor insulation. The right product depends on your wall construction, the condition of the building fabric, and any existing damp issues. We'll assess the building before recommending anything - particularly in older properties where the wrong insulation can create more problems than it solves.

It can, if the wrong product is used or if it's installed without considering the building's existing moisture behaviour. Cavity wall insulation in a wall with an existing moisture problem can spread dampness across a wider area. Internal insulation that reduces surface temperatures can shift the dew point into the wall construction, potentially causing interstitial condensation. This is why insulation in older buildings must be carefully specified - ideally by someone who understands both thermal performance and building moisture.

Cavity wall insulation is injected into the gap between the inner and outer leaf of a double-skin wall - it doesn't reduce internal room dimensions and is generally less disruptive to install. It only works in properties built with a cavity (typically post-1920). Internal wall insulation involves fixing insulated boards to the inside face of the wall, which does reduce room size slightly but is the only viable option for solid-wall properties and is also used where cavity fill is unsuitable.

Yes - insulation is one of the most cost-effective measures for reducing heat loss and therefore energy bills. Cavity wall insulation typically saves £100-£250 per year in a semi-detached house, depending on your fuel type and thermostat habits. Internal wall insulation on a solid-wall property can save significantly more. The payback period depends on the installation cost and your current energy use, but most insulation measures pay for themselves within five to ten years.

Yes, depending on your circumstances. The Great British Insulation Scheme and the ECO4 scheme (Energy Company Obligation) currently provide funding for insulation measures in lower-income households and properties with a low energy rating. Eligibility criteria change periodically. We can help you understand what's available at the time of your enquiry and assist with the application process where schemes apply to your property.

PIV stands for Positive Input Ventilation. It's a whole-house ventilation system - usually a single unit installed in the loft - that draws fresh air in from outside, passes it through a filter, and gently introduces it into the property. This creates a slight positive pressure inside the home, displacing stale and moisture-laden air outward through natural gaps in the building fabric. It improves both air quality and relative humidity throughout the whole house, not just in one room.

An extractor fan creates negative pressure locally - it pulls air out of a specific room (typically a kitchen or bathroom), which may draw cold, unfiltered air in elsewhere to compensate. A PIV unit works in the opposite direction: it pushes filtered air in, pressurising the whole house and passively pushing damp air out. PIV is generally better suited to treating widespread condensation because it addresses the whole dwelling rather than a single point source of moisture.

For condensation caused by poor ventilation, yes - PIV units have a strong track record and are endorsed by a number of local authorities as part of damp and mould remediation programmes. What they won't fix is penetrating damp or rising damp; if water is entering the building from outside, the source needs to be tackled directly. A proper survey before installation makes sure you're spending your money on the right solution.

In a house, the unit typically sits in the loft space and delivers air through a single diffuser in the ceiling of the landing or hallway - so fresh air circulates naturally through all rooms. In flats without loft access, wall-mounted PIV units are available. Installation is straightforward and usually takes no more than half a day. There's no decorative disruption beyond a small ceiling diffuser grille.

Running costs are very low - a typical residential PIV unit consumes around 20-30 watts of electricity, which works out at roughly £20-£35 per year at current rates. Most units also draw in and gently pre-warm loft air before it enters the living space, meaning the effect on your heating bills is minimal. When set against the cost of treating recurrent mould and damp damage, the economics are straightforward.